Wednesday, February 6, 2013

Carretera Austral

We had been hearing about the Carretera Austral, known for its amazing scenery, ever since we started thinking about this trip.  It was a bit of a conundrum for us, an elusive thing that just existed somewhere in the southern part of Chile; we honestly didn't really know where it was.  Well, we found it.  And WOW!  what a place.  The scenery was jaw dropping.  Absolutely stunning.  We will do our best to downselect the photos that we took, and just display some of the highlights here, but be forewarned that this post is picture heavy.

near Villa Sta Lucia
(entering the Carretera Austral near Villa Santa Lucia)

reflections from afar, Carretera Austral
(reflections from afar (we found some even better reflections later on...I've already failed at downselecting))

the TA on the Carretera Austral
(the TA loved it)

Carretera Austral sign (close up) at La Junta
(it's official. We had found the Carretera Austral, one of the only good things Pinochet did for Chile)

Mike shows how big those leaves are, on the Carretera Austral
(Mike caught a Nalca leaf that was this big)

nice austral flowers
(some more austral flora)

TA in sunset at EcoCamping outside of Puyuhuapi
(a nice little campsite outside of Puyuhuapi)

nice stream view, Carretera Austral
(so much water along the whole route. And it was often some amazing shade of blue, green, or somewhere in between)

The retired bus lunch stop, Villa Amenguai.  Those 2 bicyclists were German, probably ~70+ years old, and pedaling their way around the Carretera Austral for 10 weeks.  We saw lots of bicyclists in the area, these 2 were by far the most impressive.
(The retired bus lunch stop in Villa Amenguai. Those 2 bicyclists were German, probably ~70+ years old, and pedaling their way around the Carretera Austral for 10 weeks. We saw lots of bicyclists in the area, these 2 were by far the most impressive.)

eating lunch in a retired bus, Villa Amenguai

a beautiful ride along the Carretera Austral

Virgin Falls, Carretera Austral

We camped outside of Coyhaique where we ran into Bill from Alaska.  He has sailed and traveled the world over, and was good company for our evening camping and morning meal.  Since he was headed north, we didn't have the chance to ride with him.
(We camped outside of Coyhaique where we ran into Bill from Alaska. He has sailed and traveled the world over, and was good company for our evening camping and morning meal. Since he was headed north, we didn't have the chance to ride with him)

Jill taking advantage of the public mate
(Jill taking advantage of the public mate)

nice twisties, Carretera Austral
(the Carretera Austral was actually paved for a couple hundred kms around Coyhaique, the regional hub. It was still fun riding!)

TA with Cerro Castillo, Carretera Austral
(TA with Cerro Castillo)

the colors of these glacial lakes and rivers are incredible!  This light green was common, as well as light blues, and darker blues, and combinations of greens and blues.  Yet all still somehow crystal clear.
(the colors of these glacial lakes and rivers are incredible! This light green was common, as well as light blues, and darker blues, and combinations of greens and blues. Yet all still somehow crystal clear)

following the river, Carretera Austral

dead forest, Carretera Austral
(dead forest)

beautiful contrails, Carretera Austral

nearing Pto Tranquilo, Carretera Austral
(nearing Pto Tranquilo)

near Pto Tranquilo, Carretera Austral
(even when you look straight ahead, beauty!)

view from camp  at Pto Tranquilo across Lago General Carrera
(and this was our view from camp just outside of Puerto Tranquilo. Not bad)

on Lago General Carrera, heading to la Capilla de Mármol
(we took a trip to visit la Capilla de Mármol = "the Chapel of Marble")

la Capilla de Mármol
(la Capilla de Mármol)

dog's head, la Capilla de Mármol
(this dog lives there)

la Capilla de Mármol

the actual Capilla de Mármol (this island is the actual
(the actual Capilla de Mármol (this island is the actual "Capilla", the rest was just on the tour))

Sunset and reflections, Lago General Carrera
(Sunset and reflections, Lago General Carrera)

Cemetary on the way up Valle Exploradores
(Cemetary on the way up Valle Exploradores)

Perfect reflection in Lago Tranquilo, Valle Exploradores
(Perfect reflection in Lago Tranquilo, Valle Exploradores)

Valle Exploradores

wide open valley, Valle Exploradores

alongside Lago Tranquilo, Valle Exploradores

one happy kitty cat (and Jill seems alright with it too)

Jill made friends with the little kitty pictured above at one of our campsites just north of Cochrane. In fact, it spent a good bit of time in our tent. Once it started exploring, heading straight towards our inflatable air mattresses with its claws, it got the boot. Too bad we didn't have any kitten mittens!

camp north of Cochrane.  The bugs were so bad that helmets were worn at all times.
(The bugs were so bad that helmets were worn at all times. Safety first. Man, those horseflies were unsafe.)

Mike looking over the falls south of Cochrane

flowers are nice

south of Cochrane, Carretera Austral

nearing Pto Yungay, Carretera Austral

Mike and TA waiting for the ferry at Puerto Yungay.  It's about a 40 min ride, totally free, and even has a snack bar. We met some crazy Porteños on their way to boat to a glacier.  Hope they made it...
(Mike and TA waiting for the ferry at Puerto Yungay)

The crazy Porteños on their way to boat to a glacier:  Marcos, Maximo and Matias
(It's about a 40 min ride, totally free, and even has a snack bar. We met some crazy Porteños on their way to boat to a glacier. Marcos, Maximo and Matias. Hope they made it...)

The other side of the ferry was, you guessed it, gorgeous.  The road was in good shape, maybe because of how few vehicles come this way since there is usually no way out (except every once in awhile when a river can be crossed, but with questionable aduana services available).  We did, however, see an awful lot of bicyclists since they can ride/carry their bikes from Villa O'Higgins into Argentina.  Even with the backtrack, we were glad to see this stretch.

on the way to Villa O'Higgins, Carretera Austral

on the way to Villa O'Higgins, Carretera Austral

camping at Media Luna, just south of Villa O'Higgins
(camping at Media Luna, just south of Villa O'Higgins. "Wild" horses woke us up, mostly because one of them had a cowbell tied to its neck.)

FIn de la Carretera Austral!!
(Fin de la Carretera Austral!!)

riding back towards Villa O'Higgins

Villa O'Higgins.  Thankfully it has a Petrobras station (which is marked up  to almost USD 2 per liter)
(Villa O'Higgins. Thankfully it has a Petrobras station (which is marked up to almost USD 2 per liter))

Between Villa O'Higgins and Puerto Yungay

Just sittin' on a bench in full motorcycle gear... this is how we admired the view to keep the bugs at bay.  Between Villa O'Higgins and Pto Yungay
(Just sittin' on a bench in full motorcycle gear... this is how we admired the view to keep the bugs at bay. Between Villa O'Higgins and Pto Yungay)

big waterfalls between Villa O'Higgins and Pto Yungay

flowers are still nice

After ferrying back from Villa O'Higgins, we decided to check out Caleta Tortel, at the other end of the dead end road. It was an interesting town, all built on boardwalks.

sunset over camp outside of Caleta Tortel
(we found a nice spot to camp on the way, and appreciated the sunset)

Mike on the boardwalks of Caleta Tortel

old boat, Caleta Tortel

The cat liked Jill so much as to follow along with her, Caleta Tortel
(the cats liked Jill here, too)

along the boardwalks, Caleta Tortel

wooden sculptures of indigenous people, Caleta Tortel

Mike dropped a glove into the water.  Thankfully (1) a passerby notice it happen and told him and (2) it was within stick's reach of an accessible place on shore...it just took some off-boardwalkin'
(Mike dropped a glove into the water. Thankfully (1) a passerby notice it happen and told him and (2) it was within stick's reach of an accessible place on shore...it just took some off-boardwalkin')

Then back up towards Cochrane we went.

Between Caleta Tortel and Cochrane, Carretera Austral

Carretera Austral approaching Cochrane from the south

the ultimate general store, Cochrane
(the ultimate general store in Cochrane)

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